Snow Hike in the Drakensberg, September 2012

Saturday morning we check in at Giant's Castle resort and sign the mountain rescue register. We meet some people telling us that Bannerman's Pass is impossible to climb, we will break a leg. This guy knows because he mapped out the area!! Anyway, we just shrug it off and start our hike towards Bannerman's Pass. The Berg is covered with a layer of snow and the closer we get, the more excited we are.

We have lunch at Bannerman's hut and then slowly make our way towards the Pass. The first encounter with the snow is slippery and I start to worry, this could be worse than I thought. However, soon the snow becomes thicker and that worry is over! Now, I am knee deep in the snow, having to lift my legs high out of the holes I make. Making progress is very slow and hard work.

Soon I start to sink in thigh deep and getting out is a mission.

By 5.30 we are finally on top and quickly find a spot to pitch our tents.

The mist rolls in and we can't see a thing, so we have to melt snow for water. We climb into our sleeping bags, make supper, and soon pass out, as it's been a long day. The next morning we wake up to sunshine and a most glorious day:

We have breakfast, pack up and start hiking towards Langalibalele Pass.

Going around past Bannerman's cave the slope is iced up completely and its like we are on an icerink but at a 45 degree angle. We are slipping, holding onto our sticks for dear life, slowly trying to move down the mountain to softer snow. Eventually when its safe, I sit down and slide down the last bit but rapidly accelerating that it becomes scary and I brake by ramming my stick into the solid ground. I nearly jerk out my arm but I've come to a standstill. Now its back to soft deep snow, which is so much hard work again, that Penny eventually crawls on all fours to distribute her weight. Just before the pass we come to a river and have a well earned cuppa tea.

Going down the pass is fairly easy, steven follows the footprints of an animal that knows the exact track and soon we are back below the snow line. We have to strip instantly as the temperatures down below are so much warmer. By 4.30 we are back at our vehicle and have a long journey back to Joh'burg.

Fish River Canyon hike, August 2012

Last week a group of eight travelled to Namibia, six of whom would hike the Fish River Canyon. The other two had come along to spend a couple of days at Ais Ais. Shortly before arriving at Hobas, the start of the hike, we stopped at the Canyon Roadhouse for lunch. What an interesting place: lots of ancient vehicles placed in strategic places all around the restaurant. The lunch was delicious.

Group photo before we start. From right to left: Ulrike, Heinz, Penny, Joe, Don and Sabine

We descended the precarious path causiously, negotiating the rocks with care.

We had hardly descended 10m when Ulrike, my sister, said that her boot was falling apart - the sole had come loose!! Nothing could be done and she had to climb down very carefully so as not to trip with this gaping boot. Once at the bottom, she and Joe, our gadget man, pondered over how to fix this boot. Ulrike finally "drilled" holes into the top and bottom part of the boot with the sharp point of scissors and threaded through a thin but strong piece of string, which Joe then tied very tightly. The second boot was going to come loose the next day when she had to repeat the procedure and tie that boot as well. The knots held very well and she could walk without a problem. She did, however, end up with loads of sand in her boots.

The next morning we scrambled across big boulders and walked through thick sand. This part of the canyon is still fairly narrow and walking is tough.

We came across a vespa that has been standing here since the 60's, when five guys wanted to ride the canyon in their vespas. This one got the furthest, which is about 3km into the hike. The others all perished way before.

Evenings were spent chatting next to a roaring fire - there was plenty driftwood to be found (except for the first night where we really struggled to find enough). We had two pots in which we cooked our meals, that Penny and I had bought, prepared and divided out for everyone to carry equally. I had forgotten potholders, so we used sticks to carefully remove the pots from the hot fire to stir or check the progress. We ate like kings and there were leftovers every night for whoever was hungry to have for breakfast!

We were looking forward to the hot sulphur springs on day two, where we could soak our weary muscles. However the water was so hot that we nearly got burnt. By splashing some cold water into the hot, I managed to cool it down ever so slightly to try and get accustomed to the heat. We all resembled lobsters afterwards.

We found a sandy spot for our camp every night and would sleep under a starry sky. As it was close to new moon and there was absolutely no light pollution, the stars were amazing - there were so many one could hardly identify the easy ones! I would lie in my sleeping bag watching the sky and looking out for satellites and shooting stars, and then fall asleep blissfully. Early mornings were chilly but never too cold.

Boulder hopping is something one either loves or hates on the Fish, and careful placement of the feet is important not to twist an ankle. There are many sections like this one, here with "Table Mountain" in the background.

Reflections in the water are a highlight to me on the Fish:

We even had some rain, which is something of a rarity in this part of the country in winter. So, after we got rained upon the one night, Joe built us a shelter the next night with all our groundsheets and his rope that he cut up in pieces. It turned out a work of art and held us dry for the few drops it did rain. The following morning we were rewarded with the most stunning sunrise:

Joe had to try out his fishing line that he placed into the water one evening using dry wors as bait. He proudly showed us what he had caught the next morning:

All too soon the hike was over and we arrived in Ais Ais

Chief's Camp, Botswana

On 7 December 2011, Harald and I flew to Botswana for a photographic workshop.

From Maun we flew with a small plane to Chief's Island, where we were met by our guide, Rex. Our actual guide, Kane, didn't fit into the plane and could only fly out the next day.
The camp was stunning.

The highlights on our first game drive were 2 lazy lions under a tree and a Tawny Eagle with a kill.

The following morning we had the most gorgeous sunrise of the trip.

Unfortunately we wanted to get too close to the birds at a pan and got stuck in deep waters.

We watched on with cameras saved, as the back-up team pulled our vehicle out. That was the end of our game drive for the morning as we had spent too much time waiting to get rescued.

By the afternoon, Kane had arrived, who then took us on the game drive. What a difference - as he was also a photographer, he knew exactly how to position the vehicle so as to get the best photos. We managed to get some great bird shots:

The following morning we drove across the bridge and to"Susi's pan", a fair distance but what magnificent scenery - wide open spaces with pans and palm trees. We came across this huge Baobab that had been virtually debarked by elephants:

Elephants were everywhere:

Then we got into lion territory - about 15 lions at a buffalo kill. They were stuffed already but some were still eating:

We practised polecam for the first time. Frenzied attaching the camera onto the monopod ensued, remote attached, and then turn the whole contraption upside down and lower it down the side of the vehicle. Point the upside down camera towards the subject and start shooting. Then lift the monopod and see if any shots are worthwhile. These were my better ones:

On the afternoon drive Kane led us to a leopard sighting. She was sleeping under a tree near her kill. Kane said we would come back to her at a later stage, when it was cooler and that she would then come out and drape herself over an open log nearby. I didn't quite believe him, but when we did return after about an hour, there she was, on that exact log, unreal! She came down and started looking for her cub, that came running towards her after a while. She kept calling for her other cub but it never appeared. They returned to the log for us to photograph them. The little one was such a playful little darling

We stayed until the last light, (the above photo was taken at ISO 3200) and then had to head back to camp.

On day four we couldn't find the leopards anymore. We did, however, see Ground Hornbills:

And later some other highlights:

On the last morning we headed back to Susi's pan and found a herd of at least 200 buffalo

Kane took us to a hyena den, where we carefully climbed out of the vehicle and took some low down shots:

Via the radio, we heard that the lions had been found. In a mad dash to get to the them, Kane took a couple of short cuts and nearly got us stuck in the middle of a pan. Luckily his actions were fast and he reversed immediately out once he realised the vehicle was threatening to get stuck:

The lions were lying on the road, and more were joining them, until we counted 14.

We climbed out of the vehicle on the other side of the lions and took photos from underneath. It was very scary and risky, but Kane assured us we were ok. We had three seconds to get back into the vehicle should those lions decide to make a move - a daunting thought!!