Fish River Canyon hike, August 2012

Last week a group of eight travelled to Namibia, six of whom would hike the Fish River Canyon. The other two had come along to spend a couple of days at Ais Ais. Shortly before arriving at Hobas, the start of the hike, we stopped at the Canyon Roadhouse for lunch. What an interesting place: lots of ancient vehicles placed in strategic places all around the restaurant. The lunch was delicious.

Group photo before we start. From right to left: Ulrike, Heinz, Penny, Joe, Don and Sabine

We descended the precarious path causiously, negotiating the rocks with care.

We had hardly descended 10m when Ulrike, my sister, said that her boot was falling apart - the sole had come loose!! Nothing could be done and she had to climb down very carefully so as not to trip with this gaping boot. Once at the bottom, she and Joe, our gadget man, pondered over how to fix this boot. Ulrike finally "drilled" holes into the top and bottom part of the boot with the sharp point of scissors and threaded through a thin but strong piece of string, which Joe then tied very tightly. The second boot was going to come loose the next day when she had to repeat the procedure and tie that boot as well. The knots held very well and she could walk without a problem. She did, however, end up with loads of sand in her boots.

The next morning we scrambled across big boulders and walked through thick sand. This part of the canyon is still fairly narrow and walking is tough.

We came across a vespa that has been standing here since the 60's, when five guys wanted to ride the canyon in their vespas. This one got the furthest, which is about 3km into the hike. The others all perished way before.

Evenings were spent chatting next to a roaring fire - there was plenty driftwood to be found (except for the first night where we really struggled to find enough). We had two pots in which we cooked our meals, that Penny and I had bought, prepared and divided out for everyone to carry equally. I had forgotten potholders, so we used sticks to carefully remove the pots from the hot fire to stir or check the progress. We ate like kings and there were leftovers every night for whoever was hungry to have for breakfast!

We were looking forward to the hot sulphur springs on day two, where we could soak our weary muscles. However the water was so hot that we nearly got burnt. By splashing some cold water into the hot, I managed to cool it down ever so slightly to try and get accustomed to the heat. We all resembled lobsters afterwards.

We found a sandy spot for our camp every night and would sleep under a starry sky. As it was close to new moon and there was absolutely no light pollution, the stars were amazing - there were so many one could hardly identify the easy ones! I would lie in my sleeping bag watching the sky and looking out for satellites and shooting stars, and then fall asleep blissfully. Early mornings were chilly but never too cold.

Boulder hopping is something one either loves or hates on the Fish, and careful placement of the feet is important not to twist an ankle. There are many sections like this one, here with "Table Mountain" in the background.

Reflections in the water are a highlight to me on the Fish:

We even had some rain, which is something of a rarity in this part of the country in winter. So, after we got rained upon the one night, Joe built us a shelter the next night with all our groundsheets and his rope that he cut up in pieces. It turned out a work of art and held us dry for the few drops it did rain. The following morning we were rewarded with the most stunning sunrise:

Joe had to try out his fishing line that he placed into the water one evening using dry wors as bait. He proudly showed us what he had caught the next morning:

All too soon the hike was over and we arrived in Ais Ais